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Crissey...who?

With a wisdom of a 20-something-year-old person stuck in a 12-year-old girl's body.
Crissey has a strange obsession with the arts, unicorns, and referring to herself in third person.

Excuse me, but...

All artworks and photos unless otherwise specified are © Crissey Si -- borrow at your own risk or fear the wrath of her hand shoving 500 marshmallow pieces down your throat. 

On the other hand,

She's mostly a very busy person but for special people with special requests, she is open to hear what you have in mind. Open to sponsorships, ads and other projects.

Email her at hellocrissey@yahoo.com

11 Mar 13

DIY Panda Face Sweater | Tutorial

131 notes Reblog Comments

I was dying to buy this panda sweater from Miss Selfridge because it was on sale for 30% off a few months ago (December?) but the last one wasn’t my size! boohoohoo ~ So I decided to make one myself :D

New motto in life : If you can’t have / buy it, make it yourself!

***

Luckily, I got this pretty knitted sweater at 50% off from Forever21 ! :D It only cost me around P600. 

You’ll also need a needle (preferably the one you use for cross stitching or the next smaller size) 

…and some knitting / crochet thread.

Oh, and a roll of double sided tape.

***

I replicated the panda face using Adobe Illustrator and printed it out on an A4 paper since my sweater size is XS.

* Note that this is not the exact placement of the panda features. You can print out the ears, eyes, and mouth separately if you want a bigger face / using a bigger sweater size.

Here’s the template you can print out :)

***

Cut out as carefully as you can ! 

You can use a craft knife for the hard to cut parts~ (National Bookstore)

After cutting, place them on your sweater making sure they’re all aligned. Use a measuring tape (I used a shoelace cause I’m too lazy to look for my measuring tape~heehee).

Once you’re satisfied with your placements, use double sided tape to secure them in place.

***

Now you can start stitching the outlines using the basic back stitch~

***

Image and description from Maurer Stroh

"Bring the thread out at the right-hand side. Take a backward stitch over the required number of threads, bringing the needle out the same number of stitches in front of the place where the thread first emerged. Continue in this way, working from right to left in the required direction.

Remember that odd numbers come from the back of the fabric to the front and even numbers are inserted into the fabric. The actual positions of these numbers will vary from projec to project. This is just an example.”

***

Surprise, surprise! I’m not exactly brilliant at sewing. Good enough! Please be very careful not to pull the string too tight because your cloth will get all wrinkly and distorted.

***

Outlines done! :)

If you want an easier way out of this, you can use fabric paint to fill in the insides. If not, then proceed to the next step :D

***

Now you have to sew more! ahhhh! 

Image from Maurer Stroh

SATIN STITCH

***

Sew/embroider using the satin stitch. This will take a while so you have to be very patient. Rest every once in a while to avoid back pains hehe :)

This literally took me 30 minutes! I thought I was dying /O.A

***

FINAL PRODUCT!!! Not the best at sewing but…close enough! :) 

Tell me what you think :) Comments, likes, and re-blogs are always appreciated!

PS: If you want black sleeves, you can dye it using fabric dye (powder) but it’ll be quite risky :) Just be careful not to spill over :o

***

Kitty face sweater tutorial & template soon!!! :) Hope you enjoyed this tutorial !

25 Nov 12

TUTORIAL | DIY Ombre Jeans + Jeans Roll-up

166 notes Reblog Comments

Long overdue post is long overdue.

Finally found the time to edit/post the photos hehe :) This is for everyone asking me how to make ombre jeans ~ I added a cute polkadot roll-up design too! I’m going to use white since it’s easier to dye. Colored fabric (medium-dark) will require some bleaching :) I actually tried it on my black denim shorts and it’s a bit tricky — Will tackle this one next time.

***

MATERIALS:

• White Jeans — Got mine from BENCH since it’s reasonably price and quality is commendable

Mod Podge Fabric Glue (DIY Modge Podge Tutorial here) or

• Sew no More Glue ( Carolinas / Ace Hardware / True Value )

• Rubber Gloves

• Medium-Large Brush for applying the Glue

• 6-8 packs Venus Fabric Powder Dye (any color you want — Venus brand is available in National Bookstore for only P 5.00 a sachet)

• Empty Syringe and Atomizer — For color trial / If you’re the messy type

• Scotch Tape / Fabric Tape / Masking Tape

• Preferred fabric design for jeans roll-up — Size depends but you won’t be needing that much

***

Imaginary guidelines before starting. You can use a pencil (light) to mark where you want the darkest shade to start and end. I recommend it to be just a bit below the hips. You wouldn’t want it to be covered when you’re wearing a long top, right?

Now you can mark where the middle shade will end (thigh part). For the washed up ( going to white) part, I suggest you mark it just above the knee. Don’t worry, you can always adjust in the process. We just want to avoid dying the entire thing ~ make sure you leave some white parts :)

***

Use 6-8 packs of Venus fabric dye (Use at least 8 if you’re using a light shade) in any color that you prefer. If you’re a beginner, using light shades are easier to control and remedy if you make a mistake.

Add about half an inch HOT water and mix it. 

***

PS: While you’re making your dye mixture, soak your jeans in HOT/WARM water. Don’t soak the parts you don’t want any dye on.

***

It’s important to work in/near an area where a faucet is easily accessible because you’ll be gradually adding more water to lighten the color concentration thus creating an ombre effect. 

First you have to dip section 1 (darkest/most concentrated) for around 5 minutes. You can dip it longer but you have to keep an eye on it to avoid any harsh lines forming. It helps to have a cup of clear water beside you so you can gradually pour in some water on the are where the white part meets the dyed part so wash out the harsh lines. You can also ‘rub’ on the clear water while pouring to better remove harsh lines.

Once you’re satisfied with the color, add more water ( about 20-30% more of what you initially have on the sink) and slowly dip 1/3 of section 2. Don’t forget to mix the water with your hands! As you dip more parts of section 2, gradually add more water to your mixture to lighten the color — this will create the ombre effect. You can run down a bit of water on your jeans as you work on section 2 to avoid any visible/harsh color transitions. Don’t let the water run too much as we don’t want the color to wash out entirely, YET.

PS: Don’t forget to check the back part of your jeans from time to time :)

***

For section 3, repeat the steps for section 2. Notice how my water is now semi-clear. If you picked a dark shade, you can drain down half of your mixture then add clear water. Remember to leave out the bottom part of you want visible white areas. 

PS: The color will be 1-2 shades lighter when dried so don’t panic if the color is too dark for your taste. 

Once you’re satisfied with the ombre, drain out the mixture and replace it with clear water. Soak your jeans in for a bit (except the lightest-white part) 

***

If you decide to reverse the ombre, don’t forget to dry it opposite (left) of what’s seen on the photo above. The reason why the white part should be on top is that color might bleed/drip on the white parts while drying —yuck.

***

JEANS ROLL-UP


This is optional but I think it’s cute :P

***

INVERT YOUR JEANS

Cloth: Thicker cloth is easier to work with but might make your jeans (ankle area) a bit tighter than usual (for skinny jeans). I used chiffon — which is very rebellious and a pain in the butt but since it’s a pink + polkadot pattern — worth it.

You don’t need that much cloth for this :) Just about 3-4 inches in height. Width will depend on the circumference of your jeans (ankle area)

***

Cut out your fabric and make sure it covers the entire circumference. You can cut out any excess fabric after. 

***

Get your brush and fabric glue ready. It’s better to use mod podge as opposed to no sew glue. You can get Mod Podge on ebay and other online crafts store. That OR you can always make your own (DIY Modge Podge Tutorial here

***

Position the cloth (leave the folded bottom part of the jeans clear) and tape it in place — one side first.

***

Flip your cloth and begin applying glue generously but not too thick!

***

Glue on your fabric.

Be careful to remove any creases formed when doing this.

You can now work on the other leg/part while allowing the glue to dry.

After you finish both sides, flip your jeans and repeat the process on that side. Connect both ends of your fabric and cut out any excess cloth. You can apply a thin layer of Mod Podge on the fabric (sides) and intersection (where the ends meet) to make sure it stays in place while drying. 

***

Once dry, glue and fold up the folded bottom part of the jeans (The one I told you not to cover with fabric earlier) — allow to dry.

***

Once fully dry, you can wash and iron it to remove any dye and glue residue. This is how it should look like :)

If you don’t want to see the jeans roll up, simply roll it back down and you’re back to your basic ombre jeans (duh)

Hope this helps! :) What do you think about this DIY?

Show me yours if you make one !

Likes, Comments, and Reblogs are always loved <3

16 Nov 12

DIY Tattoo Tights/Stockings Tutorial

1,958 notes Reblog Comments

Sorry for not posting often! :( But as promised, here’s another easy DIY tutorial! :) I’ve been seeing this trend for quite sometime now and I think it really looks cute ! I’ll be teaching you how to transfer your design/drawing on to your stockings. If you want to use a design you found on the internet, please make sure you’re going to use it personally / do not make any form of profit from the material — better yet, contact the artist and ask permission if you can use his/her illustration/design :) Art theft is not cool. There are dozens of sites that provide stock illustration/vector/materials — all of which you can use! (Make sure to read the copyright/description before downloading and using any)

MATERIALS:

• Tights / Stockings (nude or beige)

• Fabric Pen (Available in bookstores / office warehouse) — If you can find FABRIC PAINT PENS that will be much better and fade/smudge proof

• Carton / Used folder

• Masking Tape

***

STEP 1:


Print out your design (8.5” x 11”). If you’re using a black pen, it’ll be better if you print it out in gray/light color so you won’t get confused when you’re tracing over the design.

After printing out the desired design, tape the sheet on to your carton/folder. Make sure to tape all sides to avoid any paper movements. 

***

STEP 2:

Once attached, roll up your carton until you form an arch.

Tip: You can measure the arch width using your thigh :p

Tape both sides to hold the cartons form/ hold it in place

***

Step 3:

Insert your carton inside the leg of your stockings.

Make sure to push it down to the area where the stockings start to get thinner. *see dotted lines ~ Please note that the area above the dotted lines will not be visible unless of course you’re going commando/no shorts/no skirt HEHE :p

***

Step 4:

Grabe your fabric pen and carefully trace over the lineart :)
PS: Buy the fine tip pen to make tracing details easier.
Be patient! :))
***
Step 5:

Allow the ink to settle in and dry overnight *just to be sure* although it dries as fast as 5 min ._. hihi
You should have something like this.
t
***
FINAL PRODUCT:
Super easy right? :) Show me yours if you make one ^u^ Hope this helps! 
This is super cheap too! Cost me around P40 (stockings) and (P75) for the pen ~ roughly P150? :)
Likes, comments, and shares are always loved <3
4 Nov 12
34 notes Reblog Comments

YOUTUBE LINK : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7hIR3jL1pU&feature=youtu.be

Very quick sketch + inking. This is how I draw my chibis ~ Not really a tutorial but hoping it’ll help ! :)

Will post a chibier chibi (lol is there such a thing?) next time!

Comments, reblogs, and likes are always loved ^u^


Materials ( All of which can be found/purchased in National Bookstore)


• Canson Sketchpad ( 90 gsm )

• Pilot 0.7 Mechanical Pencil with Blue Lead

• Unipin Pigment Ink ( I usually just use the 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.5, and 0.8 ones )

• Kneaded Gum Eraser 

19 Sep 12

DIY Studded/Spiked Pumps : Tutorial

57 notes Reblog Comments

Plain pumps getting boring too look at? Spike and stud it up! :D I actually found black faux suede pumps lying around in my shoe cabinet the other day. It’s a size smaller so I don’t really wear it out PLUS I have weak leg muscles so I’m kind of a ‘flats’ girl.

PS: Not actual photo of my pumps because I forgot to take a picture hehe /fail.

Since Domz (One of my super gorgeous bffs) has been raving so much about studs and spikes for the past few days, I decided to ‘dress-up’ my boring pair and give it to her as a surprise present. heehee. 

***

Materials:

• Mod Podge ( Check out this link : How to make your own Mod Podge ) You can also get some at ebay!

• Glitters (I just used silver glitters for this one)

• Boring Pumps (duh)

• Spikes and Studs (Again, there’s a lot in Divisoria but I don’t exactly know where since I don’t buy it myself)

• Duct tape/ Masking tape (If you’re a messy worker)

• Paintbrush you don’t mind getting messed up with glue and glitter (It’ll easily wash off though)

***

Step 1: Prepare your glitter mixture by mixing glitter and mod podge in a 1:1 ratio

You want the mixture to be pasty and not…grainy. 

***

Step 2: Brush over the parts where you want to add glitter. Don’t forget to put masking tape on parts of the shoe you don’t want glitters to touch! 

I decided not to use masking tape since the material I’m working on is suede — I didn’t want to risk having masking tape residue on the shoes :o

Allow to dry and clean off excess glitter with masking tape.

***

Step 3: Prepare your studs and spikes while waiting for it to dry.

***

Step 4: Because I’m an impatient potato, I carefully added spikes while it was still a bit wet. hehe. 

You can use your mod podge (jewel pod podge is better) to adhere the studs and spikes but I found out using Might bond (in small amounts) is more effective and fast. Just be sure not to put too much (excess glue surrounding the stud/spike) because the glue looks hideous when it dries up.

For the next steps, you’re really in your own. You can put the studs and spikes anywhere you want ! Just be careful not to overdo it or mess up the glitters with your wandering fingers (if it’s still wet)

***

Here’s what I did to mine:

Note: I used Mod Podge (Jewel) on the right shoe and Mighty Bond (for shoes — You can find it in DIY/Hardware stores) on the left. Notice how it’s neater :D

Added studs!

***

Continued the spikes and studs pattern down to the heel after the glitters were a bit dry.

***
Don’t forget to give the front side some stud and spike lovin too!

Seems to be missing something…

Oh! More studs of course!

Was not quite satisfied with this yet.

***

Added glitters to the front platform to match the heels.

When the glitters have completely dried up, add another layer of mod podge to seal it.

Clean out any excess glitters with masking tape while it’s still a bit wet.

***

Here’s the final output ~

***

Enjoy your new and improved pumps! :) Or make a friend happy by giving it to her ! LOL

***

Reblogs, Likes, and Comments are always loved <3 What do you think about this post? ^u^

2 Sep 12

DIY Ombre Sneakers Tutorial

313 notes Reblog Comments

Hi guys :) As promised, here’s a step by step tutorial :D Thank you for the numerous notes, comments, and likes on Instagram ~ Follow me on Instagram if you haven’t ! (SHAMELSS PLUGGING MWAHAHAHA) — crissey8 on Instagram. 

***

This is super easy and fun :) 

Things you need:

• Gloves

• Syringe (1 per color) — Optional but recommended :) PLEASE REMOVE THE NEEDLES LOL

• Rubber Cement — Optional

• Masking Tape — If you don’t have rubber cement

• Atomizer — Optional but highly recommended for precision 

• Sponge 

• Popsicle sticks for mixing the dye

• Fabric Dye (Liquid or Powder) — I’m using powder for this tutorial 

• Paintbrush (Make sure it’s clean — I suggest using a new brush; just buy the cheapest one)

• Plastic Cups for mixing dye

• Hot water

• Newspaper or anything to cover your work area

• Wear clothes you don’t mind having fabric dye spilled or splattered on

***

Step 1:

Bring out your sneakers :D (old or new) 

Note: This will only work on white or light colored sneakers. For darker sneakers, you have to bleach it first. 

PS: Don’t forget to remove the laces :) You can also remove the insoles if you want~

***
Step 2:

Cover all the rubber side strips with Masking tape or Rubber Cement to block out the dye from adhering to the rubber. You can remove it afterwards or wait for it to wear off We won’t be dipping the entire shoe in the dye mixture so there’s no need to cover the soles.

 

I love how my rubber cement (Elmers) has a built in brush ! :D So convenient! Just be careful not to put so much as rubber cement is also use to adhere. Just apply a thin layer on the rubber. 

Wait for a few minutes and allow the cement to dye. If you’re using masking tape, you can start immediately with step 3.

***

Step 3:

Now you have to wet/soak your sneakers (canvas part only) with HOT water.

You can do so by using a paintbrush first then soaking it more with a sponge.

It is very important to work on a wet/soaked surface to allow the dye to blend and mix better — no hard lines/obvious transitions to achieve the ‘ombre effect’.

***

Step 4: Make your dye mixture

* I used 1 sachet of powder dye for this tutorial (per color)

~

Because I’m starting with the darkest part (back) of the ombre, I only added 3/4 of an inch of hot water to 1 sachet of purple dye. Don’t forget to mix! :)

***

Step 5:

Once you’re done mixing your dye mixture (darkest) ~ take out your atomizer and syringe (optional). I think the smaller atomizers will work best for sneakers as it won’t cover a large surface area. For bigger materials such as shirts, you can use the bigger atomizers (Yes, the one you use when ironing clothes)

I used my syringe to transfer a bit of the concentrated dye into my atomizer. /Because I am O.C like that :))

***

Step 6:

Use your sponge to wet your sneakers again :) Make sure to cover the whole area~!

Spray the back part of your shoe with the dye bath. Careful not to over-spray :) You can always spray again :D

Do note that once it dries, the color will be lighter than it is on a wet surface. 

***
Step 7 : 

Now take your brush, dip it in your hot water and carefully blend out your dye (Colored to white areas of your shoe). Yes, we are now creating the ‘ombre effect’.

Use more water as you get nearer the middle part of your shoe or wherever you want the ombre to end (white). 

Afterwards, clean your brush and dip it again in water (clean hot water). Now carefully brush water starting from the WHITE part of your shoe to the lightest ombre — this is to remove or make any hard lines more subtle. Repeat steps until you’re satisfied with your ombre. 

If you’re using only one color, you can stop here and let your sneaks dry :) But don’t forget your other pair HAHA :))

***

Step 8:

If you’re planning to have 2 or more colors, simply repeat steps 4 - 7.

I’ll be adding pink ombre for the other half on my pair :D

You may start at the TIP with the darkest shade again. However, this time I suggest you start with the lightest shade. (Just add more water to your mixture — about 1 and a half inches of water)

Start from the tip and work your way halfway up to the white part. Clean your brush and blend until you’re satisfied.

***

Step 9:

OK. So it didn’t turn out pink :)) Oh well /flips table. It looks nice though!

***
Step 10:

Add more dye for a more concentrated mixture and apply to the tip (1/2 inch) of your shoes then work you way up with your clean brush. 

I added a bit of red to my pink dye so it’ll be a bit darker ._. But it turned…REDDDD :)) /fail ~ oh well!

***

Step 11:

If you still have remaining dye mixtures you can dip dye your laces too! :) You don’t have to be very neat/careful with this one since it’s not that noticeable once it’s laced. 

dip dip dip~

Tadaaa~! Now carefully wring out excess water :D

***

Step 12:

Be patient and wait for it to dry :))

Don’t be surprised if it’ll turn out 1 or 2 shades lighter ~! :) I DID warn you that it’ll be lighter on step 6. 

Just make your mixture darker or more concentrated if you want a dark ombre~ I was aiming for a pastel shade so…yeah! :))

Tadaaaa :D Easy, right? :) 

Hope this helps! :) Show me yours if you make one ^u^

<3 Crissey

9 Aug 12

Adobe Photoshop Basics : Understanding and Working with LAYERS

109 notes Reblog Comments

I can’t believe I’m only writing about this now :)) One of the most essential, useful, time and effort saving knowledge when using Adobe Photoshop. Ah yes, the most dreaded layers! I can almost remember the first time I saw these intimidating boxes and icons *shudder* — but understanding layers is quite simple and easy! EMBRACE THEM :)) I promise it’ll make your life easier!!!

ANYWAY! Before I start blabbing again…I will start by opening my Adobe Photoshop /click.

FILE -> NEW

It’s always advisable to set your backround layer to transparent first. If you’re quite sure of the backround color you want for your artwork, go ahead and click on white or backround color — automatically set to white. Take note that when you open a new file with a white or any other color you select, that layer (first layer / backround layer) will automatically be locked.

But do not fear! Simply double click on that layer then click OK to unlock it :D

After clicking OK, the ‘lock icon’ is removed and you are free to edit that layer.

***

As I was saying, open a new file and set the backround to transparent.

Note that there’s a gray/white checkered pattern on your canvas/file. The area covered by this pattern means that the area is TRANSPARENT (no pixels). See what happens when I color a part of that area.

Because the opacity and flow of my brush is set to 100%,

it covers part of the transparent area completely. 

***

When I set my brush opacity / flow to a lower percentage — in this case both 50% , see what happens:

You can still see the ‘transparent area’ underneath the brush stroke, right? When working on an artwork, you can play with the opacity and flow of your brush to have more control over your strokes and color :) You can also use this if you want certain colors/parts of your work to intersect without completely covering the other element:

Opacity and flow command/option is not limited to your brushes. You can also change an entire layers opacity and fill.

In this image, I filled out the entire canvas in blue at 100%.

* No more transparent area.

Now I’ll lower my opacity and fill to 70%.

This is what happens:

My entire layer is at 70% opacity and fill :)

Now I can add another layer beneath my blue layer without it being completely covered.

Image underneath the 70% opacity/fill layer.

PS: 

• Fill - affects only the layers content.

• Opacity - affects the entire layer, including any effects (e.g drop shadow, inner glow, stroke etc.)

***

/Got carried away. OKAY! Now for the layers! :D

When I had no clue what the layers were for — my line art, colors, textures, and everything else was on a single layer. This means that every mistake, or every time I want to tweak something (like the color of hair/eyes), MY ENTIRE ARTWORK GETS MESSED UP. This means I have to carefully edit my mistakes or changes without touching any of the parts I don’t want to edit/delete. 

Example:

Notice how the entire artwork is on just one layer (right). What If I suddenly change my mind and wanted her to have a sad face instead of a smiley one? Do I erase, recolor, and re-draw the mouth?

ERASE:

RECOLOR:

RE-DRAW:

TOO TIME CONSUMING LITTLE CHINESE GIRL IS NOT PLEASED!!! :c What if my artwork had shadows and textures? — it will take you forever to edit that! O_O

***

Okay I got carried away… ON TO THE LAYERS! To make it simpler, just imagine a clear acetate. One layer is equal to one clear acetate.

***

So let’s start by opening a new file and setting the back round layer to transparent - 1 clear acetate.

Note that I have only one layer and that is my backround layer — BOTTOM MOST LAYER.

***

Now I have a cupcake drawing and I’ve already isolate the backround thus creating a floating line art (pls see my tutorial on this)

* Imagine a clear acetate with a cupcake drawing on it *Used black pentel pen 100% opacity)

Now I’m going to take my lineart and place a NEW LAYER on top of my back round layer. (Acetate with cupcake drawing ON TOP of clear acetate)

It should look like this:

***

Here’s what it basically looks like (concept) in 3d:

***

Now, if I fill my BACKROUND layer with white, nothing will happen to my lineart because it is IN A SEPARATE LAYER.

However, because I isolated the backround of my line art (floating line art) this layer has some TRANSPARENT areas/pixels. Since the entire BACKROUND layer is filled with white, it will also show on the transparent areas of my lineart layer. It should look like this:

/Hello says the cupcake 8D

***

Now that I have a backround layer and my line art layer, I am now ready to fill in the colors. Don’t color the entire thing on one layer because that actually beats the purpose of having layers. In this case, it is best to divide your colors by

1. Cupcake paper holder

2. Cupcake paper holder LINES

3. Cupcake Body

4. Cupcake Icing

5. Sprinkles

6. Whites and Sparkles

So you won’t get confused, I suggest you rename your layers by double clicking on that layer and typing in your desired code/name.

***

So, where do I start? Do I add a new layer on top of my lineart or below my backround layer? — NO. Adding a new layer and coloring on TOP of your lineart will result to this:

AHHHHH!!!! Why? — you covered your lineart by placing it on top! (at 100% opacity)

How about if I color below my backround layer? — OH DEAR GOD NO .___.

Why? — Your backround layer will COMPLETELY COVER your color/all the layers below it since the whole layer is filled with white (no transparent areas)

*** See? The concept is very easy :D

Obviously, if i want to see my lineart and colors on a white backround, I should add new layers in BETWEEN my BOTTOM MOST LAYER (BG) and UPPER MOST LAYER (line art). If I want anything on top covering my lineart — let’s say some sprinkles, I need to add a new layer ON TOP of my lineart so it will NOT look like this.

But instead look like this:

Gets? :D

***

Okay fast forward! I have already finished coloring on all the layers and changed my lineart color. I now have a total of 9 layers.

Btw, that little eye icon thing you see there is the visibility button. If you click it the layer will ‘hide’ — not deleted. Click it again then the elements ON THAT LAYER will re-appear on your canvas.

All 9 layers in 3d format:

FRONT:

ON YOUR CANVAS:

***

Say I’m fickle and I suddenly want to change my cupcake to BLUE! What do I do? — I simply select my CUPCAKE BODY layer

and recolor it in blue.

NONE of my layers will be affected because everything is on a different layer :)

***

PLEASE TELL ME YOU UNDERSTOOD ;_____; /back pain.

Anyway, I think that’s about it! :D Basic knowledge on layer functions :) There are more things you can do with layers so maybe you can explore too! (Merging layers, flattening, linking, etc)

***

Hope this helps!!! :) Comments and likes are always lovedddd <3 

8 Aug 12

Adobe Photoshop Tutorial : How to Color Inked Lineart

178 notes Reblog Comments

Hello <3 Decided to make another basic photoshop tutorial for you guys :) 

Today I’ll be teaching you how to color your inked line art :D Notice how other artists have very soft light colored lines while others have dark black solid outlines? If you’re the type who’s more attracted to light colored outlines, then this tutorial is for you <3 I promise it’s super easy and you can even use this technique even when coloring your artwork (not limited to line art) <3

Anyway, you can use my Princess Jasmine illustration /or your own illustration so you can follow along. 

Illustration © Crissey Si

This illustration is for your personal use only :)

STEP 1:

Open your inked illustration (I am using Adobe Photoshop CS5 but it doesn’t really matter which version you have since we’ll just be using the basic photoshop commands)

If you’re using your own illustration, please make sure you are scanning it in black and white. This is very important as you will need to isolate your line art onto its own layer — floating line art. Keep your artwork clean with solid lines as much as possible before scanning so it’ll be easier to clean up on Photoshop. 

***

STEP 2:

Before anything else, please make sure you have isolated your line art / Floating Line art. If you have absolutely no idea what I’m talking about, please read through my tutorial on HOW TO CREATE FLOATING LINE ART

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STEP 3:

Once you’ve isolated your line art, it should look like this:

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STEP 4:


Now that you have isolated your line art into its own layer, click on the “Lock Transparent Pixels” icon located right on top of your layers. Make sure you have selected your line art layer first before doing so.

Transparent pixels are the checkered gray and white areas you see on your line art layer (These are the areas we deleted from your scanned image - white backround area)

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STEP 5:

Once you click on the icon, a ‘lock’ icon should appear beside your layer. In this case, it should appear on our line art layer.

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STEP 6:

Now for the fun part! On the same layer, try to color over your lineart. Notice how only your black line art is affected?

If you want a single solid color, just fill in the entire layer with your desired color

( Command + delete [mac] or Ctrl + delete [windows] )

You can even apply gradients :) Enter ‘G’ for the gradient or bucket tool shortcut. You can edit your gradient colors by entering your desire colors using the gradient editor tool located here:

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Gradient effect on line art:

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It doesn’t stop there! You can even apply textures or images :)

Here’s a photo I took :

Now, open or drag it in the file you are working on:

DON’T PANIC!!! :))

Make sure the image (should appear as a new layer) is on TOP of your line art layer.

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Now, applying this image / texture to our line art is very simple! All you have to do is hover your mouse in between the 2 layers while pressing onto the ALT key.

• Floral Image Layer
• Line Art Layer 

An icon will appear (It looks like 2 intersected circles with an arrow pointing to the left). Once your mouse icon (hand or arrow) changes into the intersected circles icon, simply click (right click) once. 

This should appear:

Notice how your texture layer points down at your line art layer? This simply means that these two layers are intersected. The layer intersected (texture/image layer) will only affect the NON-TRANSPARENT areas on the layer below (line art layer)

It should then look like this:

PS: Sorry I think I picked a bad texture it doesn’t show that much HEHE forgive me! :))

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To make it up to you, let’s try that on Jasmine’s uh..clothes. Make sure you fill out the parts you want the texture to be applied on by creating a new layer BELOW your line art and ABOVE your BG / Base layer.

You can fill all the areas you want the texture to be on by simply coloring on this layer. If you have a very clean and simple line art, you can use the magic wand to make things easier. (Magic Wand Shortcut = ’ W ’ )

Select on all the areas you want using the magic wand tool. An area is selected when you see a blinking dotted line…thing (bad at explaining). After selecting all areas, fill it in with any color you want.

You may now deselect your selected areas ( Command + D / Ctrl + D ). Now open your image/texture layer again. This time, place it on top of your color layer.

REPEAT :

"All you have to do is hover your mouse in between the 2 layers while pressing onto the ALT key.

• Floral Image Layer
• COLOR Layer 

An icon will appear (It looks like 2 intersected circles with an arrow pointing to the left). Once your mouse icon (hand or arrow) changes into the intersected circles icon, simply click (right click) once. “

Magical arrow pointing down :D

Your artwork should look like this. Just make the necessary adjustments. You can also add more intersecting layers on top by simply repeating the steps :)

Since my image is small, I’ll copy the floral image layer and intersect it with my base color again.

To copy your layer, simply drag the layer to the “NEW LAYER” icon below.

WOW THIS IS TIRING LOL ._. Anyway, here’s what it should look like! 

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You can apply it on almost anything even on text:

1. Type whatever you want ( Shortcut ’ T ’ )

2. RASTERIZE your text. Left click on the layer and select rasterize type.

3. Layer should look like this

4. Place image/texture ABOVE rasterized text layer and repeat the necessary steps

5. Intersect

6. Final Result 

CUTIEEE <3

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STEP 7:

Now you can color your illustration and apply everything I have taught you mwahahaha :))

Here’s Jasmine with solid black outlines.

Here’s another version but this time with colored outlines :) - HAHA I kinda uhm, accidentally deleted my colored file so I rushed this ._. sorry ! But just to give you an idea on how it’ll look like :

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Hope this helps! :) Show me your artworks hehe <3